In the gloom, a spotlight focused on a half-naked man with his back to us. He prepared an ancient instrument and gave several powerful blows to the gong. With successive blows, he beat faster and faster, and the sound echoed in our ears. Several maidens, dressed in ancient Thai costumes and carrying lighted lamps, walked slowly in procession towards the stage. Their movements were slow and graceful, and soon half-naked men carrying the Queen and King’s carriages on their shoulders came onstage. They had come to offer homage to the relics of their Lord Buddha.

For the next 80 minutes, we were transported to the enchanted kingdom of Siam in a spectacular theatrical production called Siam Niramit. She couldn’t forget how angels dressed in traditional Thai costumes flew across the stage, suspended like acrobats as they performed graceful aerial dances. I saw mystical and golden creatures, living elephants, ancient ships, ancient temples, ancient villages, Thai dance and boxing, and a river on stage! The experience was enchanting, exotic and truly Thai. I was even able to take part in a candlelight ceremony called Loy Krathong. It’s a shame cameras weren’t allowed inside the 2000 seat theater. Thailand is the only nation in Southeast Asia that was never colonized. Is it any wonder Thai people are still so kind, friendly and traditionally Asian?

“In the old days, they used to dance for royalty,” says Joey, our Filipino friend who lives in Thailand. This could perhaps explain the slow and stately movements of the dancers. Even the Royal Anthem before the performance sounded more like elegant classical music than the usual rhythm of a march. It helps that the country has a monarch who is well loved by the people; the monarchy unifies the people, deepens their appreciation for history, culture and tradition, and best of all, the monarchy works for the welfare of the people. When we were in the Vimanmek complex, for example, we visited the Souvenir Shop which was supported by the Queen. “All the products sold here are made by a certain village,” says a Filipino colleague Tata Lantin, “and all the profits go to help this village, as part of the Queen’s project.” As a souvenir, we bought a little porcelain boy dressed in ancient Thai costume, sitting in a prayer pose called a wai.

When we visited the Grand Palace or the Vimanmek Mansion, what struck me was the understated elegance of royal taste, framed by a mix of European and Thai architecture. According to our tour guide Jitra, Cambodia (Kampuchea) used to be part of Thailand, and this explained the influence of Cambodian designs on its temples, such as Wat Arun, Wat Pho, and Wat Phra Kaew. Due to the monarchy’s good relations with the rest of the world, Thailand remained free from colonization. What would it be like to live in such palaces? Well, we can take a cue from Anna Leonowens of King and I fame. She was once a royal tutor and governess at the royal court of Siam. Personally, I am glad that Anna has respected the customs of the Thai people like the wai (a prayer-like greeting) and I respect her for the monarch despite the cultural differences. These traditions endured into modern times.

You can’t talk about Bangkok without talking about the latest malls, shopping deals and Thai food. Check out the latest shopping mall, Siam Paragon in Pathumwan. Items for sale here are brand name, but if you’re lucky enough, they might have a sale. The more you buy, the bigger your discount, would you believe it? I have never seen a mall so grand in design; It’s like a six star hotel. Central in Central Chidlom is also good for brand name items. The Foodloft on the 7th floor is an open kitchen restaurant and serves many cuisines. But if you want to buy Thai souvenirs, food like tamarind or clothes, the best place is still MBK Center where you can haggle. These malls are all connected with pedestrian walkways. On weekends, there’s the Jatujak Weekend Market for exotic finds, but be prepared for the heat.

There is a popular standing room only Thai restaurant in nearby Siam Square, Som tum nua (papaya salad restaurant). “This place is always packed,” says Mike, a Filipino-German friend who works in Thailand. “The food is very good and very reasonably priced.” No wonder they had cushions outside the restaurant for customers to wait while waiters took advance orders. The food was really delicious, and for the first time we tried the sticky rice served in native containers. Thai food can be spicy with those red chillies, but if you know how to counter the spice (like eating sugar or fresh vegetables), you can still enjoy your favorites like tom yam soup, pineapple (or jasmine) rice, chicken in pandan leaves, Thai fried noodles to name a few.

After so much sightseeing and shopping, we treat ourselves to a traditional Thai massage at the hotel’s spa. The one and a half hour dry massage was very different from the usual western aromatherapy massage. The masseuse was really good; the correct pressure and stretches on the body, starting from the foot to the head, were therapeutic and relaxing. Best of all, there is no sticky oil to remain on your body and hair. Soon we come to an end: a dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya River. The Grand Palace and Wat Arun were stunning at night, and we enjoyed dinner on the terrace with great views. We are sorry to have to leave the next day; we had fallen in love with Thailand, the country and its people, thanks to the hospitality of our Filipino friends. When our plane took off from the new Suvarnabhumi airport, we saw those rice fields again, hundreds of them. Traditional but forward thinking, I thought. That’s Thailand.