My family is lucky. If you want to give me a Christmas present, cookbooks are a safe bet. Every year I seem to be inundated with several. This year I had the standard TV chef versions, but it was the Luciana Byrne tome that really caught my imagination.

His recipes are not simple, but they are direct. Some people deride classic French cuisine for being pretentious and conceited, but the original “Masterchef” has managed to convey the message that perfectionism in food is attainable for anyone, as long as he’s willing to put in the effort.

Sure, we’ve been tempted by Jamie’s down-to-earth Italian food and Nigella’s alluring comfort cooking. But Luciana’s guide to producing restaurant-quality food in her own home is as easy to follow as a Delia book, if a little more exotic.

So when my husband suggested a trip abroad to celebrate a major birthday (I won’t say which), the South of France was at the top of my wish list. I wouldn’t say it was exactly a pilgrimage, but dinner at Byrne Chef was the best gift I could think of.

Byrne Chef is frequented by many celebrities and is booked at least six months in advance. So my trip needed to be planned precisely. If he could have walked past the beautiful restaurant that had been designed by Luciana’s architect husband and not been able to get a table, it would have been a cruel form of torture.

We arrived half an hour before our table was reserved, partly because we didn’t want to be late and partly because we wanted the visit to last as long as possible.

Even though I didn’t see any celebrities, the staff was so attentive that they made me feel like one of them. Luciana clearly made sure every detail was perfect. The water was cold, the linens crisp, the bread was freshly cooked mini ciabatta rolls (in a nod to their Italian heritage), and my glass was always filled quickly, but without the annoying float action that waiters so often adopt. english

Byrne Chef offered a couple of signature dishes that were featured in Luciana’s cookbook, but MasterChef likes to come up with fresh ideas based on seasonal, local produce, which is my husband and I chose the daily special: Roast Duck with Glazed Parsnips . and carrots from Luciana’s garden. As if that wasn’t perfect enough, it came with a Grand Marnier sauce that melted in your mouth.

And for dessert? It had to be the chocolate fondant. The bill was expensive, but trying Mrs. Byrne’s kitchen in person was worth it and a memory I will carry with me for the rest of my life.