Ceramic, porcelain, marble, granite, terrazzo, etc. These are stones that are widely prized for their beauty, strength, and durability. Mostly available in slab or shingle form, they are very popular with homeowners and are becoming a mainstay in many homes. Tile and stone installations can be difficult, but with the right tools and skills, even a beginner can achieve great results. Tile and stone installation is one of my favorite trades of all time, and I’d like to share with you some of the installation techniques I’ve used over the years. Let’s start!

TOOLS – To install shingles correctly you must have the proper tools. In general, you will need:

a) tape measure

b) a marker

c) tile nippers

d) hammer

e) a tile cutter

f) notched trowels and pointed trowels

g) 4 or 5 inch angle grinder

h) tile wet saw

i) mud mixing paddle (for thin-set mortar)

j) Diamond hole saws (for plumbing fixtures)

k) a drill.

MATERIALS: thin-set mortar (for floors), backerboard or hardi-backer, backerboard screws, ceramic tile putty (for walls), and the tiles you will be installing.

PREPARATION WORK – Tile and stone are very susceptible to movement. If you are installing tile flooring, break the existing floor down to the subfloor or plywood underlayment. Next, reinforce the subfloor with 2-inch screws to reduce squeaks and bouncing. Thoroughly clean the floor with a dry vacuum and make sure it is flat. If the subfloor is rotten, it should be replaced with new plywood of the same thickness, usually “3/4-inch”. For basements and concrete floors, check that the entire floor is level and flat. grind down the high spots. If you are installing tiles, the walls must be completely clean and free of debris. New drywall is recommended, and if you are tiling a tub or shower, use 1/2 hardi-backer or cement backer board.

FLOOR TILE INSTALLATION: After preparing the subfloor, measure and place 1/2″ backer board to install on top of the plywood. The backer board is 3′ X 5′ so plan a layout where the boards are staggered and not aligned in a cross shape When the design is finished, mix some thin-set mortar and, using a square or U-notched trowel, spread a layer of thin-set under each board, then set into place Using light pressure to get a good bond Using backer board screws, drive them in approximately 6″ apart and repeat until all backer boards are in place and secured with screws. Use the flat end of the trowel to spread the thin coat along the seams and embed the backerboard tape. Finish by smoothing out any excess. Then locate the longest wall in the room to use as a starting point. Using the 3-4-5 squaring rule, dry-lay and fit the tiles until you can get cuts that measure nothing. less than half the tile Apply floor spacers to achieve even grout joints and double check your work. When everything is ready, start laying your tiles.

ALTERNATE METHODS: In lieu of a backerboard, there is a newer tile underlayment called Schluter-Ditra, which is a polyethylene membrane that is laid in a thin layer and laid over the plywood subfloor, and can be laid the tiles directly on it. Due to its characteristics, it is excellent for concrete subfloors and basements, but for large jobs it can be quite expensive. One of the most economical methods you can use is to staple a 16 gauge wire lath to the subfloor and then tile directly. However, unless you are cash-strapped, I would recommend the backer-board or the Schluter-Ditra system. DO NOT PUT TILES DIRECTLY OVER PLYWOOD SUBFLOORS. The plywood will absorb water and moisture from the thin layer and the tiles will loosen.

THE 3-4-5 SQUARE RULE – Step One: Measure 3 feet from the corner in one direction and make your mark Step Two: Measure 4 feet from the corner in the other direction and make your mark Step Three: Measure the distance between the marks. If it is equal to 5 feet, it is square. Start tracing your chalk lines.

If your measurement is less than 5 feet or more than 5 feet, adjust your markings until it is square.

WALL TILE INSTALLATION: The key to a good wall tile installation is to keep all tiles level and plumb. In the shower and tub surrounds, make sure your backer board is installed (don’t use drywall) and you’re good to go. Starting at one corner, mark the height of the tile, then use a level to level that height around the frame. Then measure the center wall of the frame and mark dead center, and plumb this line to the desired height using a level. Starting at this center line, dry-set the tiles with the grout joints, making sure all cuts end at the corners (adjust lines if necessary). periodically to plumb and level as you go. Be sure to use the small notched V-notched trowel for ceramic tile. When the center wall is finished, start tiling the other walls starting with full tiles and making sure all cuts end at the corners. Use ceramic tile putty, and when fully set, you can start grouting. For walls outside of shower and tub surrounds, drywall is ok to install, use ceramic tile caulk, in bathrooms it will most likely be moisture-resistant drywall (green color) .

GROUTING TIPS – Generally, for floors, use sanded grout, and for walls, use unsanded grout, depending on tile joint size and manufacturer’s recommendations. Mix the grout with a mud mixing paddle in your drill until it is a peanut butter consistency, and begin to float the grout joints at 90 degree angles, making sure to fill each grout line and joint. Certain tiles, such as granite and marble, must be sealed before grouting to prevent staining. the necessary steps. After applying the grout, let it sit for 10-20 minutes and start cleaning the grout, use warm water and a grout sponge and wipe slowly at 90 degree angles, constantly rinsing the sponge to keep it clean. Continue until all the grout has been removed. When the grout has fully cured and dried (usually 24-48 hours), use a towel or gauze pad to wipe the “haze” off the tiles. You can then apply grout sealer.

PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT! – As you do more and more tiling jobs, whether as a professional contractor or a DIYer, you will learn and discover more tiling techniques such as diagonal tiling, herringbone patterns, etc. and your skills will develop. Tile and stone installation is rewarding and enjoyable work, and you will find that there is no greater satisfaction than a job well done!